Olavus Vullum Bjørnson Vestbø
A Sailor’s Reminiscences
from the Days of the Sailships
“This story of my experiences as a sailor, in my youth, in the proud sailships, will probably be somewhat different from all narratives of sailors that I have heard or read.”
Translated from Norwegian by B.C. Berge (Nephew)
Transcribed and edited by Ken Tannenbaum (Great-great-grandson)
Olavus set out from Norway as a boy, bound for the endless horizon. His voyages took him across the Atlantic in hurricanes, into the harbours of Jamaica, Boston, Copenhagen, and Rangoon, and aboard ships crewed by men of every nation and disposition. These are his accounts — 68 chapters of comedy and peril, written plainly, “as near as I can remember.”
The voyage, chapter by chapter
Choose a port
Prologue
Introduction
This story of my experiences as a sailor, in my youth, in the proud sailships, will probably be somewhat different from all narratives of sailors that I have heard or read. The…
The First Lessons
In sailor life I received, as a 15-year-old boy, on a six months' voyage in the Baltic and North sea, as cook, in the brig _Nanna_ of…
Coming Home
In the autumn, I spent the winter with my folks. But no sooner did the spring, 1876, open than my longing for the sea awoke, - I must away. Sixteen years old. Large and…
The Bay of Biscay in Uproar
The further west we came in the Channel, the harder the gale blew, and the seas increased accordingly. Ship and sails were new, and she was a good sailer, so we felt we could…
The Proud Captain
Lisbon lies on the north side of a river, of which I do not remember the name, probably 8 or 10 miles from its mouth. At the mouth of the river, and to the north side, was a large…
An English Man-of-War
A clear, sunshiny day, I believe it was Friday, before we left Lisbon, a fearful cannonading began down in the vicinity of the fort. A squadron of five English warships came in…
Captain – Able Seaman
We had our cargo in hold, and now we must hurry with preparations to sail by Saturday evening. We expected that on the next day, which was Palm Sunday, we were to have a holiday.
Punishment for Disobedience
In the meantime, the chief officer had not forgotten the Finnøybu. The next day I think it was, in the afternoon, he said to me: 'Go down in the cable-tier and take a piece of…
No Holidays
Then, one afternoon of fair wind and weather, the first mate came to me with orders to get a bucket of tar and proceed to tar all the fore-rigging, and see to it that there were…
Dead Reckoning
The wind was favorable and it did not take long to pass thru the English Channel into the North Sea. Here the winds were variable, skies clouded, and we had to do some tacking.…
Home-coming Celebration
To think – we were home again, - and free. It seemed like three years since we left here, but it was only a little over three months. I never experienced so much in so short time…
Youth and Amor
At home on Finnøy, in the beginning of June, 1876, I found it, then as now, a beautiful island, especially in spring, with the millions of flowers of all kinds to delight the eye,…
To Archangel
Shipping-master Helland was a well known character in Stavanger. He did nothing else than go around and pick up crews for the ships. One could recognize him far away, by his long…
My First Voyage to America
Now, for the first time, I was about to cross the great Atlantic Ocean. It was now autumn, and the weather was not always fine, so we had a great deal of exercise, to reef, furl…
Boyish Carelessness
The officers had found that I was good at handling a rowboat, and told me to get into the jollyboat, a little, round-bottomed yawl belonging to our ship. This yawl was very easily…
Bill and his Negro Boss
Then we had to put the resin in the hold. The barrels in which it was contained were like ordinary flour barrels, the resin having been run into them from a kettle, as a solid…
Crossing the Atlantic in a Hurricane
With a full cargo of resin well stowed in the hold, we were towed out to Cape Fear, and set sail for Bristol, England. Not more than one day out, a gale arose from the west, and…
Impressions of Bristol
It was now February, 1877. Here we were at Bristol, a large and apparently prosperous city, with fine buildings and good, paved streets, extending out from the river over fairly…
In Tropical Seas
Sails up, the course was set for Madeira, lying west of the strait of Gibraltar, on latitude about 32° north. Here, it was thought we would get into the northeasterly tradewind.
Jamaica, Tropical Paradise
Here we were in Jamaica, one of the most fruitful and productive islands of the West Indies.
Sailing in the Gulf Stream, with Scorpions
We sailed around the west end of Cuba and then northeastward up through [the strait between the Bahamas and Florida](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straits_of_Florida). The wind…
Worms in the sea-bisquits
It was now about five months since we were provisioned at Cardiff. A lot of biscuits, which appeared sonneting like cakes, had been bought. In America they might have been called…
Threatening Clouds
When our load had been discharged our ship had to go in dry-dock, to be inspected and classified. For this purpose the copper sheeting had to be torn off, and a plank taken out…
Low Pressure
We received orders to take in ballast and go to Wilmington again, for another load of Resin.
A Fight for Existence
We came into harbor in company with an English bark. Our anchors were dropped at the same time. It was a custom that as soon as the anchor was in bottom, we must go aloft and make…
Ups and Downs of a Deserter
The carpenter and others of our crew knew where we were, and came to visit us sometimes In the evenings. They told us that at 4:00 o'clock in the morning after we had left the…
Life in a Floating Coffin
Next morning, on board the 'Cito', we weighed anchor and set course for Hamburg, Germany. The ship was loaded with resin, and had an additional deck load of 100 barrels. Being…
In Hamburg
Anybody can well imagine our feelings of gratitude and joy, having reached port, at last, and every man in good health. I cannot think of it as anything less than a miracle.
A Pirate Crew
There sat a large, bearded man on a chair, and looked at us who stood around the floor, and he spoke out abruptly: 'I want you; and you; and you;' and so on, pointing at each one…
Festive Days in the Slaveship
The next morning, I woke with a feeling that it was late. I called the Dane and asked if he had not been called. 'I have heard nothing,' he said. 'Well,' I said, 'We don't get up…
Two Dudes in Bordeaux
We left, and were discharged, and were paid off with 400 - 500 francs each. A franc was worth 20 cents in those days. This was quite a sum of money in a sailor's pocket at one…
Summertime in Norway
Stavanger lay bright and beautiful at our bow, rising slowly from the sea, with pretty grass-clad island to the north. Two years had now passed since I sailed out. One has to have…
The Navigation School
The Navigation school opened in early October. There were 120 students, 4 teachers, and a dean, whose name was Gabrielson. The students were divided in four rooms, with one…
A Fishing Trip
One day, when at my home, my youngest brother, Peder. suggested that he and I go a fishing. He was 2½ years younger than I, and we had grown up together until I went to sea. We…
A Fight with Tuberculosis
Time passed. The mild weather was here, but my cough would not leave. So I concluded to go to a doctor and hear his advice. I went to Dr. Due in Stavanger, whose father was a good…
Captain Sars of the 'Diana'
Now, in Bergen, I began to think of how to get over to Stavanger and home. Captain Sars then asked me if I had any money. No, I had no money. 'You may give us a little help to…
To India, in the 'Semiramis'
To be at home again, and under such favorable circumstances, made great happiness for my folks. Not long after I had returned home it was reported that the 'Allegro' was sunk near…
The Birthday of the Captain's Wife
The ship was in ballast, bound for Shields, England, there to load coal for [Rangoon, India](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yangon). The captain's wife was onboard, going as far as…
Off to the Tropics
Sails up, and out we go for a long voyage. The wind was favorable and brisk, and we stood out the Channel and into the southern Atlantic at a great pace. In a little while we were…
Neptune - A Barber
We were nearing the Equator. There is a maritime fable, known to all experienced sailors, and sometimes so vividly related as to be quite effective on the novices, who are…
The Flying Dutchman
On one of those days while thus crossing the southern Atlantic we saw a sight that has always been a mystery to sailors, namely, the Flying Dutchman, or 'Death Ship'. It was…
Rangoon, Burmah
One forenoon our eyes beheld a golden tower emerging out of the damp marine blue in the horizon. It glittered and sparkled in the bright sunlight and unusually clear atmosphere.…
Peaceful Hindoos
The unloading of coal began. A large lighter was brought along-side, and with it about 80 hindoos or coolies. It is too hot here for Europeans to do such hard work. These coolies…
The Pagoda
One Sunday some fo us went ashore to take a look at the pagods or temple. When we came out to a hill outside the city we passed a big white lion, made of masonry. It was 14 feet…
Wise Elephants
The city was located on the east side of the river while our ship lay on the west side. Up on shore in front of our ship there was a large sawmill. It was some distance up from…
Now Back to Europe
It was early May as we lifted anchor, glad to get out of this bakeoven. We had perspired away a great deal of the fat of our bodies but as soon as we got out to sea we were…
A Seamonster
We had come into the northeast tradewind and were not far from [Madagascar](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madagascar), as I stood at the wheel one day, I saw a sight that I have…
Gay Copenhagen
The next day we were mustered out. Then we found a good hotel where nearly the whole crew put up. There was very good board. A custom here was to put a bottle of brnady (Genever)…
A Memorable Voyage in the Baltic
I found there was place for a second mate on a brig, lying in the harbor. This brig was the 'Olivier', of Drammen. I went aboard, and met the captain, who told me they were on the…
Sailing in Fear of Shipwreck
Then the captain comes up to me and says: 'If we are not outside of Skagen light before four o'clock tomorrow morning we shall be shipwrecked.' I smiled and looked at him to see…
Longing for Sunny Seas and Tradewinds
This was in the latter part of November or the first of December, 1880. It was now time for me to be mustered out, and I notified the captain of it. 'No,' he said, 'I did not…
To Cuba for a Load of Sugar
Back in Greenock, I was told a Norwegian schoonerbrig, of Kristiansand, had come in from South America, with a cargo of sugar, and that it needed a second mate. I moved fast to…
In Boston
It was early spring and the weather was pleasant. I thought Boston looked good from the sea, as we entered the very fine harbor in sunshiny weather. We were made aware of the fact…
The Wild Alarm Clock
I knew the captain might return at any time, and I made hurry. This package contained a clock, the like of which I had never seen before. It was an alarm clock, and I had never…
The Atlantic Ocean in Fair Weather
The next day we left Boston for Sween. The weather was lovely and as soon as our ship was in order and running at good speed, I began to work on a new model of 'Semiramis', which…
Careless Sailors
Here I must relate a tragically comic incident that took place a few days before we reached Karlshamn. We were in the Baltic, and were tacking in a northerly wind up along the…
Harbors of the Baltic
Karlshamn was a small town, but had an excellent harbor, along one side of which there was a fine solid stone pier. Now, in summer time this was a beautiful place, and the…
With President Daae
I knew a ship broker, who sometimes would hire men for ships in other harbors. Upon application to him I found there wa a [Tvedestrand](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tvedestrand)…
A Perilous Adventure
But this story needs a few introductory remarks. I have been in doubt about including it in these reminiscences, but have come to the conclusion it cannot hurt anybody, as it…
Sailing as 'Styrmann'
Toward evening I arrived in Stralsund. And the captain of the ship on which I was to sail, having been notified by telegram, met me at the steamer landing, and brought me to his…
Quaint Beauty of Shetland Isles
The wind continued contrary, and we had to tack out among the Shetland Isles and the Orkneys. But the weather was otherwise pleasant, and we would often run near land, to get…
Brooklyn Gangstersof Shetland Isles
It must have taken 7 or eight weeks to make the crossing to New York. It was about noon, one day, when our anchor was let down outside of Brooklyn. The captain came to me and…
Mate’s Responsibilities
We hauled the ship in to a pier in Brooklyn, near where the Norwegian America Line now has its dock, and we began to unload the ballast. We hired some Irish boys to help us with…
The Dives in Brooklyn
There happened to be a young man from Stavanger, or rather, from [Tastad](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tasta), Jaederen, living in Brooklyn. He had assisted our carpenter a…
Second Mate Goes Mad
It was probably the next night, our second mate and carpenter went ashore. They returned about midnight. I was awake, and heard they were drunk and quarrelsome. When they got into…
Captain on Vacation
Our mizzentop mast was decayed in spots, and had to be renewed. This would take some time. In the meantime the harbor-authorities ordered us to move further up East Rive. To do…
Lost on Manhattan Island
Another Norwegian ship lay at Hoboken then, and the mate on that ship suggested one evening that we go over to the Bowery, and have some fun. We took the Hoboken ferry, and walked…
A New York Crew
The day before we sailed the captain brought onboard his newly hired crew. Watching the men as they entered, I was considerably disappointed. He had hired the cheapest crew he…
Homeward Bound
When sails were made fast, deck cleared, and the ship had been pumped ry, out time was up. Now everyboy was free. Now we were in Tvedestrand, the home port of our ship.